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01.27.12
#437 Speechless - Ice Cider
It isn't often that I'm totally speechless when I try a drink, but it happened today. Usually I love or hate something, think it is boring or want to yell from the rooftops how much I think it is tasty, but trying an Ice Cider today confused the hell out of me.
The Neige Premiere Ice Cider is a confusing wine. Made from McIntosh and Spartan apples, it has a bright, fresh apple juice aroma, then with some muskier notes and a hint of apple pie pastry coming off as well. The palate is similarly pleasant, with fresh apples, then slightly stewed fruit flavours coming off with a very clean, slightly tangy, drying cider like finish. It almost has a touch of quince jelly as well. I think it is a perfectly nice product. 88pts
The problem is why would you buy it? Costing £22 to £25 for a half bottle, it is firmly in good Tokaji and Sauternes territory, so I can't imagine anyone buying it as a dessert wine. If you want a sweet apple flavoured alcoholic drink, you could buy a 500ml bottle of good cider for a fifth of the price and if you just wanted a sweet apple drink, there is always apple juice to consider and you wouldn't be disappointed.
There is nothing wrong with this, I quite like it, and could see how it might be nice with a cheese board, but wouldn't ever consider buying a bottle as there are better products out there from the categories that this is trying, but not being overly successful, in inhabiting.
Neige Website
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01.26.12
Undercover Uncorked: Kendall-Jackson Aims to Take Wine Prime Time
Standing in a Kendall-Jackson vineyard, new-man-on-the-job 'Jake' looks a bit nonplussed as he's handed an English-Spanish dictionary to help him communicate with fellow crew members who speak Spanish only.
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Langhe Report: Nebbiolo "Full Immersion" Day 1
I had no longer said goodbye to my Austin amigo, Devon, sending him on his way to the Real Madrid –Barcelona game in Barcelona, than I set upon to make my way to Marseille, so I could catch a very early plane to Milan to gather up another Austinite friend, John Roenigk. Before that though I had to endure a night in a smoky room and some Colombard-Chardonnay to go with my (most-likely) Atlantic farm raised Salmon. But after 36 hours of being the walking dead, and working through it, it was not too bad. Other than I had to leave behind the pure and wonderful wines and friends I made in Montpellier. But that is the life and… Italy calls.
So a 4:30 AM alarm to catch a shuttle and a plane to get to a noon appointment in Serralunga. No more Grenache or Carignan. No more Viognier or Grenache Blanc. On to Nebbiolo and company.
All went well as I found my traveling companion earlier than expected. A sturdy little Lancia and before long we were in the Langhe.
Side note: I love France. I really do. I get along well with the people, hell they talk to me even though they know I do not speak. But they talk to me. And I do my Buster Keaton and we do just fine. But when I land in Italy, it is really like I at home, Or I should say, my Euro-home. Nothing to hold me back, even though I am barely conversant. I have enough simpatico to make whatever I need happen. Yeah, yeah, I’m not fluent or idiomatic. But hey, Italy, I am here. And that is, at my stage, really good enough. Better than most.
We had two appointments and a dinner. First stop I think saw us tasting 11 wines. Batasiolo. A good entry point for John’s full immersion into the Langhe according to Alfonso. Our guide, Angelo, took us through the wines he wanted us to taste, not the wines that were currently for sale or the most popular wines. A trained sommelier and one with a really engaging personality and easy going style. The last flight of wines we tasted, three 2005 single vineyard Barolos form Monforte (Bofani), La Morra (Cerequio) and Serralunga (Boscareto) along with a 2006 also from Serralunga (La Corda della Briccolina) set the stage for our first day in Nebbiolo country.
A short drive followed to Castiglione Falletto and the Boroli estate La Brunella for a tasting. There also we tasted a normale 2006, and two 2005’s, a Cerequio and a Villero. But wait there’s more.
John didn’t sleep on the plane, so I dropped him back at the hotel. Later we joined the owner of Batasiolo, Fiorenzo Dogliani and his group, including the ever energetic Ricardo March, Fiorenzo’s colleague from Miami. Stefano Poggi (“grasshopper”) was just back from his extended Italian honeymoon, so Ricardo stepped up to the plate and was a huge asset.
Dinner was a knockout. I am just getting back to life and eating and drinking (and enjoying) wine. The Sommelier at Il Boscareto’s Michelin One Star, La Rei, walked us through what was, hands down, the best meal I have had in many months and one of the best wine and dining experiences I have ever had in Italy. I do not know how I fall into these things, along with a vertical “blind” tasting of single vineyard Baroli going back to 1996.
Ok, yeah, yeah I am bragging now. But I need to mention this is after the end of a 19 travel and hour work day. So, if you think I’m taking the easy road, think what you want. As for us, we're just back on the wine trail in Italy.
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Updated Review: ***+ $ Earthworks Shiraz Barossa Valley 2006, Australia - BEST VALUE
Find Earthworks Shiraz prices and retail availability.
By way of background: Earthworks Shiraz Barossa Valley, 2006, is from the highly-regarded Barossa Valley region of Australia, definitely known and respected for its old-vine shiraz.
Earthworks wine is essentially a negotiant wine, meaning the grapes are collected from farms around the region. Alcohol level is 14.5%, consistent with shiraz from this area.
Original review, May, 2009:
In the glass, Earthworks shows as a deep, dusty, brick-hued red, no hints of purple on this three-year-old specimen.
On the nose: Swirling hurls some of the candy apple aromas into the air. On closer attention, you can pick up some of those deep, ripe plum/fruit aromas along with hints of the inside of a new balloon - almost an overripe funk. That will probably blow off with a short decant.
On the palate, Earthworks touches the middle of your mouth with full fruit, sparkling a bit of spice to the sides. Acids tickle your cheeks, and a nice tannin flush provides for a reasonably-lengthy, slightly sweet finish. Solid stuff. Not so overwhelming that it couldn't accompany a meal. Three stars, making it an outstanding value.
Ready to drink now, but a couple more years in bottle won't do any harm.
Jay Miller of the Wine Advocate gave this 90 points, and wrote, "The 2006 Shiraz saw an identical regimen of tank and barrel. Purple-colored, it exhibits aromas of smoke, sausage, bacon, and blueberry which jumps from the glass. Medium-bodied, ripe, and sweet with no hard edges, this superb value can be enjoyed over the next 4-6 years."
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Updated review, over two and a half years later, January, 2012: Consistent color. The helium aromas are gone from this six-year-old bottle, but the candy apple deep fruit remains. Consistent notes on the palate, blending deep fruit with a bright acid coating. Gets a plus for balance and longevity and remains a best value.
Find Earthworks Shiraz prices and retail availability.
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Wine Enthusiasts vs Wine Snobs
When I lived in San Francisco, post-college, I dated a young sophisticated law firm partner. He took me to all the best restaurants in the city. I was into food and cocktails and kept notes on where to go for the best martini, roasted garlic bulb, or fresh Focciaca. Wine grabbed my full attention the [...]
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Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs
le Mesnil-sur-Ogers, France. Chardonnay. 12%. Cork. Approx $A85
Quite delicious and certainly more pleasing than just about any other equivalently priced Champagne I can recall. Made by a co-op of growers from grapes growing in esteemed soil, this is layered and complex; the nose is all sour dough, mushrooms and citrus, while in the mouth it's beauty is clear. A superb blend of length, texture and fruit.http://feeds.feedburner.com/WinoSapien Click here for the original context
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A Wine for Tonight: 2009 Columbia Crest H3 Les Chevaux Red Wine
Would you like a quick suggestion for a good wine to drink tonight (or this weekend) that won’t break your budget and is widely available? Many of our readers have said this is something they would like, so here is this week’s selection, the 2009 Columbia Crest H3 Les Chevaux Red Wine from the Horse [...]A Wine for Tonight: 2009 Columbia Crest H3 Les Chevaux Red Wine was originally posted on Wine Peeps. Wine Peeps - Your link to great QPR wines from Washington State and beyond.
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Wine Tasting Video: Four Riojas + a Ribera del Duero
Viña Pomal Rioja Crianza 2008 (£9.99 Majestic, Yourfavouritewines.com, Rhythmandbooze.co.uk, Aughton Wines, Delifonseca, Den Boer Wines, Eton Vintners, Hercules Wine Warehouse, INXS Kicked, Sheridan Cooper’s, Taurus Wines, Noel Young, The Vineyard) Has some of the classic vanilla and orange peel of Rioja, but the baked berry flavours and notes of liquorice speak of overripe fruit, as [...]
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Being a wine publicist is like being a mother watching your children grow ~ Enoforum Wines experiences a growth spurt and I’m so delighted
Although my job with Enoforum Wines ended over a year ago, my relationship to them has remained. Once Enoforum found an importer, the next steps involved getting placements with wholesalers within each state. PR – sensibly – had to be put on a back burner. Without unlimited resources, which very few companies have these days, [...]
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Strawberry Shortbread Cake
Two layers of buttery crisp shortbread filled with fresh strawberry slices, sweet vanilla cream and topped with a fresh strawberry dipped in dark chocolate. An indulgent but simple to make treat for afternoon tea. Ingredients: Shortbread 175g (6oz) Softened Butter and a little extra to grease the dish 90g (3oz) caster sugar and a little [...]
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